TAPED TIPS | The Technique Error Holding Sport Climbers Back: Embracing Instability

This podcast episode addresses common plateaus in sport climbing, specifically at the 11C, 12B, and 13A grades, attributing these sticking points to a difficulty in finding stable positions on the routes. The speaker suggests that climbers need to become comfortable with instability to progress. While strength is important, efficiently applying it by embracing instability is key. The speaker then introduces three drills to help climbers become more comfortable with instability: the one-foot drill, monkey style or momentum climbing, and no chalk no shake. These drills are designed to challenge a climber's position, commitment, rhythm, and decision-making on easier terrain, with the goal of transferring these skills to more challenging sport climbs.