TAPED TIPS | Boulder Harder With This Simple Stability Technique
The Power Company Climbing Podcast
In this episode of Tape Tips, the speaker discusses common grade plateaus in bouldering, specifically around V4, V6/7, and V9/10, and identifies the ability to selectively create tension as a key skill to overcome these plateaus. The speaker argues that indoor climbing gyms often don't incentivize or reward this skill, as they tend to favor dynamic movements and bigger holds, leading climbers to bypass routes that require slow, deliberate tension. To address this, the speaker introduces three drills: sloth climbing (half-speed climbing), dead stops (creating tension mid-move), and the "One Size Fits All" drill (climbing with varied foot positions to create tension in unusual positions). The speaker emphasizes that practicing tension on the wall, rather than just doing core workouts, is crucial for improving bouldering performance and breaking through plateaus.
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