100 Objects #18: Hair Relaxer

Chemical hair relaxers represent a complex intersection of Black economic empowerment, assimilation, and significant health risks. Originally adopted by enslaved individuals as a survival strategy to mimic European beauty standards, the practice evolved into a lucrative industry pioneered by figures like Madam C.J. Walker and George Johnson, who used profits to fund Black institutions and civil rights efforts. However, this pursuit of straight hair—often dubbed "creamy crack"—taught generations to view natural textures as problematic. Recent scientific studies now reveal a troubling correlation between frequent relaxer use and increased risks of uterine fibroids and reproductive cancers. Journalist and historian Lori L. Tharps highlights how these products, while providing a path to wealth, have exacted a heavy physical toll, forcing a critical re-examination of the societal pressures that continue to prioritize straight hair over natural identity.