485: Mike Schallau of Is/Was Is Brewing New World Saison For Modern Drinkers

Saison brewing centers on a delicate balance of rusticity, extreme dryness, and expressive yeast character rather than rigid adherence to historical rules. Mike Schallau of Is-Was Brewing achieves this by utilizing warm, open-top fermentations and specific grain bills—often incorporating spelt and oats—to build body without excessive sweetness. By manipulating water chemistry with higher chloride levels, the brewery creates approachable, soft-textured beers that bridge the gap between traditional farmhouse styles and modern consumer preferences. The process relies on minimal processing of local ingredients, such as long-term fruit maceration and the strategic use of Brettanomyces at the tail end of fermentation, to develop complex, nuanced flavors. Ultimately, the goal is to produce convivial, drinkable beers that function as food companions, proving that complex, technically rigorous brewing can remain accessible to a neighborhood audience.