Karima Moyer-Nocchi, "The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese: From Ancient Rome to Modern America" (Columbia UP, 2026)
New Books in History
Macaroni and cheese serves as a historical thread linking centuries of cultural exchange, class dynamics, and technological innovation. Culinary historian Karima Moyer-Nocchi traces the dish from its amorphous medieval origins—where it functioned as a meatless staple during religious fasts—to its transformation into a symbol of refinement during the Renaissance. The term "macaroni" evolved from a theatrical archetype of foolishness to a metonym for the 18th-century "Grand Tour" fashion subculture, eventually influencing American culinary identity. The dish’s widespread adoption in the United States relied on industrial advancements like hydraulic extrusion and the strategic marketing of processed cheese by companies like Kraft. By positioning macaroni and cheese as both an affordable, nutritious "flesh-forming" food and an aspirational culinary icon, it successfully transitioned from an elite European delicacy to a permanent fixture in the American domestic diet.
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