We flew to Lyon, and you drive through a lot of forest to get here. It was sort of suffocatingly claustrophobic, just pine trees, pine trees, pine trees, all through the Livradois-Forez [national park], and then when you arrive in Chassignoles, suddenly you can see again, and there's light. We were like, ‘Ah, this is nice.’ It felt like a blank canvas for doing whatever we wanted. - Harry Lester

Harry Lester is the British chef-restaurateur behind a trio of beloved Auvergne natural wine destinations, namely L’Auberge de Chassignoles, Le Saint Eutrope, and, as of this month, Le Comptoir Central des Bazars. Lester first drew acclaim in London as a chef-partner in the Anchor & Hope (est. 2003) before a chance tip from a friend (among other factors) inspired him to decamp with his young family to the remote Auvergne village of Chassignoles, where he and his wife Ali Johnson would transform a neglected rural auberge into an internationally renowned natural wine dining destination.

In 2013, after selling the Auberge de Chassignoles, Lester opened the Clermont-Ferrand bistrot Le Saint Eutrope, which he ran until selling it to his former employees Michael Hazlewood and Manon Descombats in 2023. Earlier this month, Lester opened a new establishment in Clermont-Ferrand, Le Comptoir Central des Bazars, retaining the name of the toy shop that formerly inhabited the site on rue Lecoq. At the new address, one rediscovers all of the hallmarks that have made Lester’s restaurants so essential to the contemporary Auvergne natural wine renaissance: masterful yet unfussy cuisine, simple thoughtful décor, and an aficionado’s selection of natural wine from throughout Europe.

I first met Lester on a pilgrimage to Le Saint Eutrope in March 2019, and have since leapt at any occasion to enjoy his fine company on the natural wine route throughout France. I joined him to record this podcast late last August in Chassignoles, where he still lives part of the time. On this occasion he was making an appearance as a guest chef at his former restaurant. Take a listen for Lester’s recollections of his first encounters with Auvergne natural wine; his tips for local food markets in Clermont-Ferrand; and how his tripe recipe helped win over the locals.

Aaron

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FURTHER READING & LISTENING

Not Drinking Poison Podcast Series V: Chefs Who Give A S**t About Wine

Ep. 31: Jonathan Schweizer of Café des Deux Gares & Le Goncourt Ep. 30: Mateo Breña

A Septemper 2022 piece on Harry Lester by Rachel Signer at La Mescita.A March 2013 feature on Harry Lester during his era at L’Auberge de Chassignoles at The Financial Times.

A brief Q&A with Harry Lester at Planque.

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Ep. 32: Harry Lester of Le Comptoir Central des Bazars

NOT DRINKING POISON Podcast

Ep. 32: Harry Lester of Le Comptoir Central des Bazars