467: Benjamin Leroux Explains How Winemaking in Burgundy Has Changed and Why It Will Change Again

Winemaking in Burgundy is undergoing a fundamental shift as producers adapt to warmer, drier climate conditions and evolving philosophies regarding terroir expression. Benjamin Leroux, a winemaker based in Beaune, emphasizes moving away from aggressive extraction toward gentler infusion techniques and whole-berry fermentation to maintain elegance and phenolic ripeness. This transition involves rethinking traditional vineyard practices, including canopy management and the elimination of herbicides to restore soil health. Long-term sustainability remains the priority, with a focus on planting for future generations rather than short-term yields. By managing diverse parcels through a *négociant* model, winemakers gain a deeper understanding of regional diversity, allowing for precise adjustments in winemaking—such as managing malic acid levels and sulfur usage—to ensure wines remain balanced and expressive despite rising temperatures.