473: Tomoko Kuriyama Explains the Burgundy Mindset

Tomoko Kuriyama, a Japanese-born winemaker, details her transition from German viticulture to establishing the Chantereves domaine in Burgundy. Her winemaking philosophy centers on minimal intervention, prioritizing indigenous yeast ferments and low sulfur usage to achieve balance and terroir expression. She contrasts the rigorous, systematic approach of German Riesling production with the more intuitive, flexible methods favored in Burgundy. Key technical insights include the shift toward 100% whole cluster fermentation for Pinot Noir, which requires careful management to avoid green tannins while enhancing floral aromatics. Kuriyama emphasizes that successful winemaking relies on constant observation of microorganisms during fermentation and adapting techniques—such as the timing of pigeage—to the specific needs of each vintage. Her experience across diverse regions highlights the importance of soil-water dynamics and the ongoing evolution of winemaking traditions in response to climate change.