489: Sylvain Pataille and the New Old Style

Winemaking in the Marsannay region of Burgundy reflects a shift from 20th-century industrialization toward pre-industrial, terroir-focused viticulture. Sylvain Pataille, a prominent winemaker in the area, advocates for minimal intervention, utilizing whole-cluster fermentation, vertical pressing, and the elimination of sulfur until bottling to maintain the integrity of the grape. This approach responds to the historical economic turbulence of Marsannay, where proximity to Dijon and the impact of global crises once forced growers to prioritize high-yield, low-quality production. Pataille emphasizes the importance of understanding vine sap flow and soil composition, arguing that traditional techniques—such as extended barrel aging and careful canopy management—allow wines to achieve natural stability and complexity. By rejecting modern technical shortcuts, producers like Pataille aim to restore the identity of Marsannay’s diverse limestone and clay terroirs, ensuring the longevity and expressive quality of their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Aligoté.