502: Matt Dees Likes How Grapevines Think

Winemaking at Jonata, The Hilt, and The Pairing centers on a long-term commitment to specific vineyard sites and the pursuit of structural integrity over mere fruit-driven profiles. Matt Dees emphasizes the importance of patience in the cellar, particularly regarding blending, where he prioritizes texture and structure while allowing wines to evolve naturally in the bottle. His approach integrates lessons from diverse global winemaking traditions, including Burgundy, with a rigorous, observation-based focus on site-specific viticulture in Santa Barbara County. By experimenting with unconventional grape varieties like Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, he proactively addresses climate shifts while maintaining a focus on the unique, salty, and mineral-driven character of the region. This philosophy reflects a transition from early, reactive winemaking to a mature practice that prioritizes the specific, evolving voice of the land over rigid, dogmatic techniques.