16 Sept 2024
24m

Asma Khan, the chef calling out restaurants’ bad behaviour

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Life and Art from FT Weekend

Fine dining often masks a toxic, exclusionary culture defined by rigid hierarchies, aggression, and systemic abuse. Asma Khan, founder of Darjeeling Express, challenges these industry norms by operating a kitchen devoid of traditional hierarchies, where all-female home cooks are paid equally and work in an environment centered on collaboration rather than competition. This approach prioritizes emotional connection and shared humanity, proving that ethical, inclusive practices can coexist with commercial success. The industry’s reliance on the French brigade system perpetuates inequality, yet many leaders remain silent to protect their privilege. True reform requires collective bravery, with diners and professionals alike demanding accountability regarding labor practices, racism, and gender equality. By fostering a space rooted in pride and patience, Khan demonstrates that culinary excellence is inseparable from justice and fairness.

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