Today in Milan, Jil Sander Creative Director Simone Bellotti will show his second collection. Two weeks out from the show he was in New York – not to finalize the collection, which he says was largely locked a month ago, but to introduce the brand's new campaign alongside model Guinevere van Seenus. Van Seenus opened Bellotti's debut show and was the star of the Craig McDean campaigns that defined Jil Sander in the nineties. He’s looking back on those days as he prepares for the new collection.

“It’s a brand that you really have to study,” he told Nicole Phelps.

For fall, Bellotti’s mood board is organized around the idea of home—not as sanctuary, but as something more ambivalent. He's been watching Rainer Werner Fassbinder films and exploring the way the director used interiors to create tension and unease, to make the familiar feel threatening. He’s also shifting his approach for the new collection: where his first show was about reduction, this one is about addition. “I love this idea of contradiction,” he said.

Jil Sander once described the mood of her collections like a “clear glass of water” or a “glass of red wine.” When asked to describe the mood of his fall collection: Bellotti didn't miss a beat: it's the olive in a martini. “It’s this extra thing that is apparently superfluous,” he said, “But it makes the cocktail perfect.”

The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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Simone Bellotti On His New Jil Sander Collection and Lifelong Shoe Obsession

The Run-Through with Vogue