Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Finger Tendons and Climbing Injuries
03:13 Understanding Finger Anatomy and Function
06:02 Common Finger Injuries in Climbers
08:53 Pathophysiology of Tenosynovitis
12:06 Rehabilitation Strategies for Finger Injuries
15:04 Comparing Tenosynovitis and Pulley Injuries
17:56 Managing Climbing Volume and Injury Prevention
25:38 Understanding Power Loss in Climbing
29:27 Tendon Adaptation Through Lifelong Loading
33:22 Rehabilitation Challenges for Climbers
35:05 The Role of Strength Training in Climbing
37:10 Tendon Adaptation Mechanisms
38:56 Controversies in Climbing Training Methods
41:07 Ultrasound in Diagnosing Climbing Injuries
42:22 Using Strain Gauges for Performance Measurement
43:53 Understanding Pulley Ruptures
45:36 Rehabilitation Techniques for Finger Tendons
47:14 Thumb Tendon Issues in Climbers
49:09 Future Directions in Climbing Research
50:07 Finding Professional Help in Climbing Rehabilitation

Takeaways

Tyler Nelson has a doctorate in chiropractic and a master's in tendon research.
Rock climbers often experience finger injuries due to overtraining.
Finger tendons are unique in their anatomy and function compared to other tendons.
Tenosynovitis is a common injury among climbers, often due to too much stress too soon.
Rehabilitation for finger injuries should focus on gradual load increase and proper technique.
The A2 pulley is crucial for finger movement and is often injured in climbers.
Climbers need to be aware of the specific loads their fingers endure during training.
Managing climbing volume is essential to prevent injuries in climbers.
The tendon sheath plays a vital role in the health of finger tendons.
Understanding the mechanics of finger tendons can aid in better training and injury prevention. Power loss is a key metric in understanding climbing performance.
Beginners should focus on skill development rather than overloading their fingers.
Body weight significantly affects the load on tendons during climbing.
Lifelong loading is crucial for tendon adaptations in climbers.
Climbers often underload their tendons during rehabilitation, leading to prolonged recovery.
Strength training is essential for injury prevention and performance enhancement in climbing.
Tendon adaptations require significant muscle load and proper joint positioning.
Controversial training methods are gaining popularity, but their efficacy is debated.
Ultrasound is the gold standard for diagnosing climbing injuries and assessing tendon health.
There is a growing interest in climbing research, leading to better understanding and treatment of climbing-related injuries.

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Website: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com

Notes: https://jackedathlete.com/podcast-142-finger-tendons-with-tyler-nelson/

Finger Tendons with Tyler Nelson

Jacked Athlete Podcast