Crafting character-forward lagers requires a departure from the industry’s obsession with neutral, "crispy" profiles in favor of traditional techniques like decoction and direct-fired mashing. Andrew Foss, head brewer at Human Robot, emphasizes that building complexity—often described as "the wave" of integrated mouthfeel—relies on malt diversity and precise enzymatic control rather than reliance on crystal malts. By utilizing specific 34/70 fermentation profiles, including cold knockouts and controlled temperature ramps, brewers can achieve a balance of sulfur and flavor that avoids the need for excessive zero-degree lagering. This approach prioritizes sensory-driven decision-making over rigid adherence to modern, high-attenuation standards. Ultimately, the goal is to produce beers with distinct personality and depth, proving that small-scale, retail-focused breweries can successfully challenge the status quo of lager production through intentional, labor-intensive brewing methods.
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