Hello from the decline of the West!

This week’s episode features a wonderful conversation with Minh-Ha T. Pham, a professor at Pratt who researches fashion labor under global capitalism and digital capitalism—and whose new book, Why We Can’t Have Nice Things, is out now.

3:45 – We begin by reminiscing about the era of the fashion blogger (including Minh-Ha herself) and the role that young, transnational Asians played as cultural intermediaries for historically exclusive, white brands. Is there a link between them and Asian garment workers? How did those unpaid “creatives” pave the way for the continued casualization of fashion labor on social media?

31:50 – We also discuss the problem of fast fashion and the racialized way it’s often discussed. The Chinese company Shein is widely portrayed as the worst offender, as was the Korean-American-owned Forever 21 in its heyday. Minh-Ha questions that framing: In a global fashion economy that requires low wages to boost profits and encourages insatiable consumption at great environmental cost, does it make sense to zero in on these budget (Asian) brands? And do these narratives assume that some countries can only “develop” if their workers are underpaid to produce our clothes?

Plus, an answer to the question you didn’t know you had about Prada and sequins.

Subscribe (via Patreon or Substack) to join the TTSG Discord and to attend Tammy’s upcoming meet-up with listeners in Cambridge, Mass.! And don’t forget to RSVP for our December 1 event in NYC with Hua Hsu. As always, you can reach us on Twitter or by email at timetosaygoodbyepod@gmail.com. Thanks for listening!

This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit goodbye.substack.com/subscribe

Fast fashion and racialized labor with Minh-Ha T. Pham

Time To Say Goodbye