What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.

We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:

What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
How to carry a project over from one season to the next
The secret to being a successful route climber
Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
The science of building route fitness
Why many climbers are training endurance wrong

So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

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Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast